Paso Robles, CA
Turley Wine Cellars has been making some of the best, if not the absolute best, Zinfandel in California for decades. The wines which are known for fresh bright acidity and earthy-jamminess have inspired a cult following and a long waiting list. I know one “Zin-Head” who has been lucky enough to gain membership to the wine club and I don’t know what he’d do without his quarterly shipments.
To really understand Turley Zinfandel you need to get to know the vines. Luckily our tour guide Carl, who was one of the more knowledgeable enologists we’ve met on the trip, suggested a vineyard walk. While strolling through the meticulously maintained rows he told us about several factors that influence the quality of the wines. First is the chalky limestone soils which impart both acidity and minerality to the wines. Next is the orientation of the rows and the proximity of the vineyards to the ocean. This allows the grapes to fully ripen in the heat of the Paso Robles sun, but to shut down and rejuvenate at night. But more important than any other factor is age and health of the vines.
More so than with any other varietal people talk about the age of Zinfandel Vines, and Turley’s are old! Originally planted in 1922 the Pasiente Vineyard still boasts some pre-prohibition vines, although much of the stock was planted in the 1970s when Larry Turley bought the property. These old vines would not have flourished without the nurturing of Turley’s dedicated team members who go through the vineyard year round, plant by plant, manicuring the vines for ultimate sun exposure.
And unlike so many others we’ve seen on this trip, Turley’s vines are completely untrained and unsupported by wiring. This ancient form of viticulture is very cool to see firsthand. Also of importance is Turley’s dry farming and sustainable practices which basically eliminate all forms of commercial irrigation. If you make the vines struggle for water they stretch deep into the mineral laden soil and gain a rich, layered complexity that you just can’t get with younger vines.
The result is a layered and concentrated ripe wine oozing with dark fruits and acidity. It is very hard to incorporate and balance all these factors, but Turley does it better than anyone else. This became evident when we sampled several Zins from barrel. The ’10s were coming along very nicely, but definitely need some more time in both barrel and bottle to be really savored.
After some time in the vineyard and cellar we went back to the tasting room for a delicious wine tasting. Our hosts Malani and Christina spoiled us with an amazing platter of local cheeses, meats and breads. Of special note was Turley’s own Olive Oil made from estate farmed olive tress. And then there was the wine…
I didn’t even know that Turley made a white wine and now I will never forget. The White Coat, a Rhone blend of Rousanne, Marsanne, and Viogner was delectable. Bursting with notes of fresh tropical fruit and almonds, this wine is a great afternoon picnic choice. If you’re ever hosting one of those folks that won’t touch white wine, give them this and a piece of aged italian cheese and you won’t hear any back talk.
And what would a visit to Turley be without gulping down some Zinfandel. In any given year they bottle more than a dozen Zins from different vineyards and they are all good. One of our favorites was the Juvenile Label which is an – wine made from younger vines. Don’t let the description fool you because this a great wine and considerably more approach than some of the others. They even make a great Petite Syrah from estate grapes, but our favorite wine was the Dusi Vineyard Selection. This family run vineyard boasts some of the oldest, most celebrated Zinfandel Vines in all of California. Several other winemakers farm from this vineyard, but it is Turley that can really make the grapes sing. If you’re lucky enough to see this wine on a restaurant list or the shelves of you’re local wine store BUY IT!
I have to be honest though, you can’t go wrong with any of Turley’s wines. With such a storied past and the ultimate dedication to growing low yield, high quality grapes Turley has found a formula for success and they repeat it year in and year out. So get in line for the club and if you’re ever in the area do yourself a favor and stop into Turley for a tasting. Malani, Christina, and Carl will take good care of you.
Thanks Guys!
Epicurean@Altitude 
Posted on May 14, 2011
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